Dar-es-Salaam,
meaning ‘Haven of Peace’, is the largest city
in Tanzania covering
an area of about 1,350 sq km (521 sq miles) with a population
of about 2½ million. Dodoma has technically been Tanzania’s capital since 1973, but, in reality, Dar-es-Salaam is the
economic, business, political and social capital.
The city has developed around a deep, well
sheltered harbour and is the biggest port in East Africa.
It is a relatively new city. Dar-es-Salaam was only a small
fishing village until the mid 19th century which became a
significant town when Tanzania
was a German colony, particularly after the capital of German
East Africa was moved from Bagamoyo
to Dar-es-Salaam in 1891. After the 1st World War Tanzania,
or Tanganyika, as it was then called, became a British Protectorate
and Dar-es-Salaam continued to be the capital. Since independence
in 1961 the city has grown rapidly.
We first visited Dar-es-Salaam in the early
1990’s, when it was down-at-heel, being run down after
Julius Nyerere’s well-intentioned socialism of the 1960’s,
70’s and 80’s had failed. Since then a market
economy has been introduced and there has been a marked improvement.
For example, in the early and mid 90’s, the water supply
was regularly turned off and electricity was unreliable. At
this time we stayed in the Buguruni district of Dar-es-Salaam,
where water was only available on alternate days. Today water
and electricity supplies are reliable, shops are well stocked,
small shopping malls have appeared, traffic lights work and
there are numerous new smart high rise buildings.
Dar-es-Salaam is essentially a Swahili city,
although there is a strong German, British, Arab and Asian
influence, especially some of the buildings. Underneath the
hustle and bustle of a vibrant African city with its street
vendors and wooden kiosks selling everything and anything,
there is a friendly, laid back atmosphere. There is very little
hassle, often associated with large African cities, from local
people who are more likely to greet you with a warm and friendly
‘jambo’ (Swahili greeting used by Tanzanians mainly
for tourists). Taxi drivers will offer their services and
around the Askari monument in the centre of the city there
are a small number of money changers who will approach tourists.
We have always found that they stop pestering us immediately
when our response has been a polite ‘hapana sana’
(Swahili meaning ‘no thank you’).
Dar-es-Salaam is a relatively safe city,
especially during daylight. As with any city where poverty
is rife, it is sensible not to be overt in showing one’s
relative wealth, especially as there are occasional muggings.
At night, it is best to take a taxi, which are cheap, even
for the shortest journey rather than walk, especially as there
is little, and often nothing, in the way of street lighting.
Dar-es-Salaam cannot be described as a tourist
destination in its own right and is more of ‘staging
post’ for guests travelling to and from Zanzibar,
the national parks and Heathrow. It does however have some
appeal, especially for those wanting a beach holiday on its very good beaches to the south and north of the city. There
are good half day visits to Mwenge
Craft Village, the Village
Museum and central Dar-es-Salaam. We can also
arrange day trips to Bagamoyo.
We offer five hotels in Dar-es-Salaam for
our guests. For those who want to be away from the hustle
and bustle of the centre of the city there are two options which we recommend. The Beachcomber Hotel has a very good swimming pool and sea views. Sunrise Beach Resort, a few kilometres south of the city, is situated on Kigamboni (south) beach, a magnificent, sweeping bay of pristine white sand. In the centre of the city, guests can
stay at either The
Royal Palm Hotel, New
Africa Hotel or the Harbour
View Suites.
Those guests who book accommodation in Dar-es-Salaam
will receive more information about the city, including a
map and places to eat.
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